| parallax | |
|---|---|
bo gyllander
Posted:
Feb 5, 2012
Total Posts: 11
|
I find it difficult to adjust my lenses to hit the nodal point. Are there any tips for Canon cameras and the lenses. |
David Pivin
Posted:
Feb 5, 2012
Total Posts: 37
|
Bo, There will not be any parallax issues with long telephotos and you can ignore it, opting for a mechanical balance, front to back. This is easier on the mechanism. A bigger problem is dealing with focus range outdoors when there are near objects. Shooting with 100mm or less will have some parallax, but you won’t get as detailed a shot and isn’t really what GigaPan was designed for. I use Canon T2i with 75-300 zoom set to max and f/11 to f/16. Carefully choose your focus and f/stop combination to get the hyperfocal distance or DOF to include all the objects of interest. |
bo gyllander
Posted:
Feb 5, 2012
Total Posts: 11
|
David |
David Pivin
Posted:
Feb 5, 2012
Total Posts: 37
|
You should have some kind of batch processor to sharpen or exposure-correct the full set of pictures. I manage with the Mac’s iPhoto and a batch utility called iPhoto Batch Enhancer. There should be the same utilities when managing photos on Windows. Most of the time, if I have managed the focus properly, there is no need to sharpen, but have used an increase in contrast or a tweak to dynamic range with shadow compensation or highlight adjustment. HDR is a good way to deal with the extremes of light/dark in a scene, but requires a lot of work to fix. Good luck. Dave |
John Harrison
Posted:
Feb 13, 2012
Total Posts: 1
|
Thanks for posting that reply. I had a similar question and that got it! |



